What can I make a model of the hip bone out of?
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For my engineering project, I have to make a working hip joint. But I dont know what to make the hip and femur bone out of? My group was thinking about wood, but it would be too much sand papering to shape it.
So what material is easily crafted but can stay in that form without being too fragile? Thank you. =]
the low fire ceramic is a good idea. If you are a student and your campus has a ceramic department go to them and ask for help. Tell them that you would like to hand build it out of a low fire clay that will dry without cracking, with a lot of fire clay in the recipe and that you want to add some fiber too it. The fire clay will give you strength in drying, decrease shrinkage and make it durable to being built by someone who doesn’t know what they are doing. The fiber will also lower the risk of cracking when drying and will lighten the object up because it will burn off when fired. You will have to ask the ceramics department to help you fire it. It only needs to be bisque fired. good luck.
Suz on September 25th 2009 in wood craft projects
Persiphone_Hellecat responded on 25 Sep 2009 at 6:32 pm #
Go to an art store. They have sculpting medium that dries and carves quite easily. I would use a frame of wire inside and them cover it with this medium and sculpt it. You may also find it on Pearl Art’s website. Pax- C
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Nora G responded on 25 Sep 2009 at 7:08 pm #
go to ACMoore and get some modeling clay or maybe balsam wood
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Wally Y responded on 25 Sep 2009 at 7:40 pm #
Low-fired clay comes to mind. Also, soft plastic stuff like play dough or some such material. You might check with hospitals or hospital supply companies to see what the people who make fake bones and such use?
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minimaker responded on 25 Sep 2009 at 8:06 pm #
You could make a core from rolled and hammered aluminiumfoil and then cover it with a claylike material like epoxy putty. For instance Aves (which has been used for a 1:1 scale dinosaur) or Magic sculpt? Can be treated like clay when soft and sanded afterwards. It’s stronger than clays but also a tad more expensive. You will have to plan the work as you alos have up to two hours for each batch to work it as clay.
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FiveAlarmFreddy responded on 25 Sep 2009 at 8:15 pm #
The suggestion about using foil is a good one. I have done this myself before and it works great, also using tightly wound newspaper, foam or anything with mass would work too. Then wrap duct tape tightly to secure. However I would reccomend not using clay, it can become brittle and fall apart. The best thing I have found is plaster wrap. It is basically gauze with plaster mixed in. Super simple, dip it in water and spread on evenly, make sure the plaster is damp. It dries hard as a cast. This is all really cheap, easy and can be fun. Good Luck!
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ithinkiatetoomuch responded on 25 Sep 2009 at 8:24 pm #
the low fire ceramic is a good idea. If you are a student and your campus has a ceramic department go to them and ask for help. Tell them that you would like to hand build it out of a low fire clay that will dry without cracking, with a lot of fire clay in the recipe and that you want to add some fiber too it. The fire clay will give you strength in drying, decrease shrinkage and make it durable to being built by someone who doesn’t know what they are doing. The fiber will also lower the risk of cracking when drying and will lighten the object up because it will burn off when fired. You will have to ask the ceramics department to help you fire it. It only needs to be bisque fired. good luck.
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Aj responded on 25 Sep 2009 at 8:55 pm #
You could try polymer clay. It is workable like plastercine/play doh, but once baked it keeps it shape. They do not turn fragile once baked, and do not break when dropped. Well-known brands include sculpey and fimo. Sculpey tends to be cheaper. http://www.sculpey.com
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artistpw responded on 25 Sep 2009 at 9:11 pm #
Hi:
The best hand sculpting material I’ve seen so far is Magic Sculpt. It is a two part epoxy-type material and when you mix it together it cures slowly to make a very durable, and sandable plastic like substance – if it’s thin, like playing card thinness, it will break, but thicker, like 1/4 inch or more is really pretty tough. It is so much more hard than polymer clay – even the hardest I’ve used is Premo Sculpey – and it is so much better than that. It’s a tad too sticky when it’s first mixed, but is better after about 15 minutes if you want to manipulate it with your hands. To make your joint, you might try making a smaller maquette out of it in non-drying clay like Roman Plastilina to get a good idea of what you want this to look like and to work out any possible details. To make the joint, you probably will need an armiture made from wire and possibly other materials like foam, paper mache or foil. You could then mix up the Magic Sculpt material (theres also a more liquid variety of this called Magic Smooth). The Magic Sculpt comes in various colors, and I think you can also tint it by mixing in small amounts of acrylic paints or pigments. I think you can also easily paint this material after it cures. You can get the Magic Sculpt and also a lot of other sculpting materials from the Compleat Sculptor, and if you check out the sculpting forum on the wetcanvas artist community website, you can find many artists who have worked with these various materials.
Wetcanvas is a wonderful site, and there are currently more than 114,000 worldwide members. Basic membership is completely free and you can also browse many areas as a guest. I highly encourage you to check this website out – it is really a great one.
I really hope this helps you, and email me if you need more info.
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http://www.sculpt.com
http://www.wetcanvas.com